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Steve Barker gravatar image

Personally I would want to know which firm overhauled it and to know how much confidence I could have in them. That would guide me as to what to be careful about. However, if I didn't know which firm it was then I would be careful about making sure the bearings and cylinder clearances were not so tight as to cause seizure or wiping when initially run. Check the coolant - is it of the anti-corrosion type or plain water? Preferably put the anti-corrosive in and make sure you have the anti-freeze solution correct as well if running in low temperature zones. Make sure the coolant level is correct: squeeze the flexible hoses, try to get any air out of the system. Check the condition of the coolant hoses and clamps - you don't want any of these blowing off causing rapid overheating. Check the clamps are tight enough. Check the radiator is clear/clean and that the fan has been mounted the right way - most static generators (if I recall correctly) blow the air outwards through the radiator - the opposite of what happens on vehicles. If housed in a room, make sure the room is well vented so that hot air escapes easily and cold air enters easily. Check the oil, air and fuel filters have been changed and make sure there is adequate suitable quality oil in the sump. If the engine has not yet been run then remove the filter if a canister type and fill it with oil and replace it back on (make sure it is a new filter that you are doing this to). If you can remove the rocker/cam cover, do so and liberally coat the cam or rocker rack with oil and replace the rocker/cam cover. Make sure there is not too much oil in the sump now! Turn the engine over by hand - with power off - check the engine is not too tight. You will probably need to use a socket and ratchet but should be able to turn it over with a short 10 or 12 inch ratchet. Make sure that you can turn the engine off before you start it - there should be a fuel cut off device electrically operated - make sure this cutoff device works so that you can stop it when you need to. If all else fails you can block off the air flow to stop it but watch you don't suck something into the engine when doing this. Make sure the oil pressure lamp is lighting up when ignition is on. If there is an oil pressure gauge If coupled to the generator/alternator ensure it is not connected to any electrical load when first testing the engine and that there is no danger of any loose wires/sloppy connections causing short circuits leading to damage or a fire. Check that the diesel injection pipes are not rubbing/chafing on anything. Check that the fuel filter has been changed. Check that the fan belt/alternator belt is in good condition (no cracks/excessive wear) - turn it inside out to check. If this will be the first starting of the engine after overhaul then the injector pipes will have to be bled before the engine will start. Don't worry about this initially and maybe the system is self-bleeding? Connect the battery, check the fuel cutoff device is working and disconnect the wire to it, make sure hands are out of the way and crank the engine for a say ten rotations. This will move the oil around somewhat into the passageways and into the oil filter. With the fuel cutoff device disconnected the engine will not start. Check for any issues - oil leaks, strange noises, oil pressure should have risen during cranking on the pressure gauge if there is one. Let the oil settle and after 2 minutes check the oil level in the sump. If not ok then wait another two minutes, check again and top up. If no issues so far then connect the wire to the fuel cutoff device and crank for a start. If after say 8 turns the engine does not fire up then stop cranking because the injector pipes will need to be bled. Crack open the injector pipe fittings at the injectors so that they will just leak under pressure. Don't let anyone put their face near the injectors due to spraying fuel/mist that may be emitted. Go for a start again, look for leakage/mist at the injector pipe fittings and stop cranking after say 6 turns. Tighten the injector pipe fittings. Go for a start. Should fire up. Once going, monitor the oil pressure light and/or oil pressure gauge. The lamp should go out after a very short time (5 seconds max) and the gauge (if fitted) should show a rise in pressure within 5 seconds and quickly rise to be around 60psi (which will fall as the oil warms up to say 45psi) I would run it for 5 minutes, keeping an eye out for leaks from hoses, fittings and sump, checking for unburnt fuel out of the exhaust then stop, let it cool for 30 minutes check the oil and coolant levels. If all ok then I would run it again for 20 minutes keeping an eye out for leaks and turn it off, allow to cool for 30 minutes and check the levels again. Then I would connect a light electrical load, check the electrical side by running it up, switch to half load and run it for an hour. Whatever is the usual oil change interval I would halve it the first time and cut open the oil filter, open up the paper waffle and look for any signs of metal particles. If all clear then no need for concern. Always change the oil when warm/hot so that the most drains out. When fitting new filters, fill them up with new oil so that you minimise the time the oil pressure is low. The most wear occurs at starting so having oil already in the filter is a good thing. Keep an eye on the coolant level and appearance of the coolant - there should not be any oil mixed with it and no emulsion forming.

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KnowledgePointAdmin gravatar image
RedR CCDRR

Personally I would want to know which firm overhauled it and to know how much confidence I could have in them. That would guide me as to what to be careful about. However, if I didn't know which firm it was then I would be careful about making sure the bearings and cylinder clearances were not so tight as to cause seizure or wiping when initially run. run.

Check the coolant - is it of the anti-corrosion type or plain water? Preferably put the anti-corrosive in and make sure you have the anti-freeze solution correct as well if running in low temperature zones.

Make sure the coolant level is correct: squeeze the flexible hoses, try to get any air out of the system. system.

Check the condition of the coolant hoses and clamps - you don't want any of these blowing off causing rapid overheating. Check the clamps are tight enough. enough.

Check the radiator is clear/clean and that the fan has been mounted the right way - most static generators (if I recall correctly) blow the air outwards through the radiator - the opposite of what happens on vehicles. vehicles.

If housed in a room, make sure the room is well vented so that hot air escapes easily and cold air enters easily. easily.

Check the oil, air and fuel filters have been changed and make sure there is adequate suitable quality oil in the sump.

If the engine has not yet been run then remove the filter if a canister type and fill it with oil and replace it back on (make sure it is a new filter that you are doing this to). to).

If you can remove the rocker/cam cover, do so and liberally coat the cam or rocker rack with oil and replace the rocker/cam cover. cover.

Make sure there is not too much oil in the sump now! Turn the engine over by hand - with power off - check the engine is not too tight. You will probably need to use a socket and ratchet but should be able to turn it over with a short 10 or 12 inch ratchet. ratchet.

Make sure that you can turn the engine off before you start it - there should be a fuel cut off device electrically operated - make sure this cutoff device works so that you can stop it when you need to. If all else fails you can block off the air flow to stop it but watch you don't suck something into the engine when doing this. this.

Make sure the oil pressure lamp is lighting up when ignition is on. on.

If there is an oil pressure gauge

If coupled to the generator/alternator ensure it is not connected to any electrical load when first testing the engine and that there is no danger of any loose wires/sloppy connections causing short circuits leading to damage or a fire.

Check that the diesel injection pipes are not rubbing/chafing on anything. anything.

Check that the fuel filter has been changed. changed.

Check that the fan belt/alternator belt is in good condition (no cracks/excessive wear) - turn it inside out to check. check.

If this will be the first starting of the engine after overhaul then the injector pipes will have to be bled before the engine will start. Don't worry about this initially and maybe the system is self-bleeding? self-bleeding?

Connect the battery, check the fuel cutoff device is working and disconnect the wire to it, make sure hands are out of the way and crank the engine for a say ten rotations. This will move the oil around somewhat into the passageways and into the oil filter. With the fuel cutoff device disconnected the engine will not start. start.

Check for any issues - oil leaks, strange noises, oil pressure should have risen during cranking on the pressure gauge if there is one. one.

Let the oil settle and after 2 minutes check the oil level in the sump. If not ok then wait another two minutes, check again and top up. up.

If no issues so far then connect the wire to the fuel cutoff device and crank for a start. start.

If after say 8 turns the engine does not fire up then stop cranking because the injector pipes will need to be bled. bled.

Crack open the injector pipe fittings at the injectors so that they will just leak under pressure.

Don't let anyone put their face near the injectors due to spraying fuel/mist that may be emitted. emitted.

Go for a start again, look for leakage/mist at the injector pipe fittings and stop cranking after say 6 turns.

Tighten the injector pipe fittings. fittings.

Go for a start. start.

Should fire up. up.

Once going, monitor the oil pressure light and/or oil pressure gauge. The lamp should go out after a very short time (5 seconds max) and the gauge (if fitted) should show a rise in pressure within 5 seconds and quickly rise to be around 60psi (which will fall as the oil warms up to say 45psi)

I would run it for 5 minutes, keeping an eye out for leaks from hoses, fittings and sump, checking for unburnt fuel out of the exhaust then stop, let it cool for 30 minutes check the oil and coolant levels. levels.

If all ok then I would run it again for 20 minutes keeping an eye out for leaks and turn it off, allow to cool for 30 minutes and check the levels again.

Then I would connect a light electrical load, check the electrical side by running it up, switch to half load and run it for an hour.

Whatever is the usual oil change interval I would halve it the first time and cut open the oil filter, open up the paper waffle and look for any signs of metal particles. If all clear then no need for concern. Always change the oil when warm/hot so that the most drains out. out.

When fitting new filters, fill them up with new oil so that you minimise the time the oil pressure is low. The most wear occurs at starting so having oil already in the filter is a good thing. thing.

Keep an eye on the coolant level and appearance of the coolant - there should not be any oil mixed with it and no emulsion forming.